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Wednesday 30 July 2014

Beyond the Taj – Less Popular Places to Visit in Agra


Whenever anyone mentions Agra, the first visual that pops up in our mind’s eye is the grand Taj Mahal, which is soon followed by mentions of Fatehpur Sikri and Humayun’s Tomb. However, Agra is a city that is steeped in history, having being home to one of the most influential eras in Indian Civilization, the Mughals. For a change, take a trip to Agra with an aim to go beyond just the Taj and you’ll be surprised at the richness of culture that envelops the city. Here are 5 less popular places in Agra that you’re sure to enjoy visiting.

Chini Ka Rauza

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This monument is the tomb of Allama Afzal Khan Mullah, prime minister of the emperor Shah Jahan who was also a noted scholar and poet. This tomb is on the eastern bank of the Yamuna River.

The word ‘Chini’ refers to the glazed tile work on the building, all the more so since it was the first building in India to contain exclusive tile work of this kind. At a distance, the exterior of the building looks unassuming, but move closer and you’ll marvel at the intricacy of the tile work done. The colors and patterns are very representative of the Mughal era, especially in the central dome which is considered the main attraction of the tomb. Unfortunately, parts of the building are damaged, although the interiors still retain their past glory.

Red Taj Mahal

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The story of the Taj Mahal is extremely popular, about the legendary love between the emperor Shah Jahan and his wife, Mumtaz, on whose death, he commissioned the building of such a beautiful mausoleum. However, there is another less known love story which also resulted in the building of such a tomb. This is the story of the Red Taj Mahal, a smaller and significantly redder version of the original Taj.

Col. John Hessing was a Dutch soldier who surprisingly supported the Marathas and fought against the British and paid for it with his life. His wife, Ann (Alice) Hessing was distraught and built the Mughal designed tomb for her Catholic husband, which is now a symbol for love without barriers of nationality or religion.

Diwan-i-Khas

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The Diwan-i-Khas is the place where a Mughal emperor received official guests. It is also called the Hall of Private Audiences. This was the site for the famous Peacock Throne, which was later captured by the Persian king Nader Shah.

The hall contains a rectangular chamber, surrounded by arches, each of which is intricately decorated. This is a fine example of how much detail the Mughals went into when it came to their buildings and architecture. The ceiling used to have silver and gold, which was used up in subsequent financial difficulties. All of the grand treasures within the hall were looted in the rebellion of 1857, leaving behind the building as it exists today.

Birbal Bhavan

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The tales of the king Akbar and his wiseman Birbal are so popular that Birbal has attained legendary status! Birbal Bhavan is where this talented man lived, near Jodha bai’s palace in Fatehpur Sikri. It was originally built for one of Akbar’s wives who didn’t like it, post which the king modified it as a residence for Birbal.

The building is characterized by its double domes, which is said to have been constructed as a means to keep the building cool. The architectural style of the entire building is a mix of Islamic, Persian, Jain and Hindu styles and is often considered a marvel of civil engineering during the Mughal era.

Musamman Burj

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Another architectural wonder of the Mughal era, the Musamman Burj is an octagonal watch tower, which affords a beautiful view of the Taj Mahal. It is made of marble, with the dome topped with copper. There are several pillars and niches, with beautiful inlays and a carved fountain in the center.

This building was built by Shah Jahan for his wife, Mumtaz, and he even used precious stones as inlays in the marble. This was also where he was imprisoned by his son Aurangzeb, and where he is said to have breathed his last, looking over at the Taj Mahal.


Every historical building has many stories associated with it, and this is only amplified when it comes to the Mughals. The Mughal era has seen the best and worst of human emotions – love, tragedy, deceit, sabotage. If only those marble walls could speak!

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